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June 22, 2004 - Ladera and Storybook Mountain Vineyards
Ladera – Napa Valley
Small town Montana family gives up the life of raising cattle and alfalfa. The ‘stars were aligned’ to lead them on a new mission across the west to grow grapes and create fine wine in the renowned Napa Valley. The historic winery produces all it’s wine via a gravity run system. The 3 level production facility, built into the hillside, allows for less oxygen interaction and bruising of the fruit—from the crushing/destemming, through fermentation and finally racking into barrels. The care that goes into growing and producing such wines was readily apparent in the bottle.
Storybook Mountain Vineyards – Napa Valley
Begun in 1976, Storybook has ‘a passion for Zinfandel’. Jerry Seps, founder of ZAP (Zinfandel Advocates & Producers) has what Robert Parker calls ‘one of the steepest, most picturesque vineyards in California’. Terroir representative wines made by ‘letting the natural magic occur’ throughout the production. Have you ever tried a ‘Zin Gris’? The 2003 Zinfandel Rosé paired exceptionally well with the smoked salmon and chives on crustini offered as wine number 8 for the evening.
Tour of South Africa June 29, 2004
When South African wine comes to mind most think immediately of Pinotage, the cross between the Pinot Noir and Cinsault varieties. However, our recent tasting of 8 wines included none such wine, in fact it is Shiraz, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon that are making headlines. Additionally, beautiful Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay are making South African wines a top contender in the international market, particularly the United States. Most of the wines tasted were from Stellenbosch, the heart of South Africa’s wine farmers. Generally still small in individual production, the terrior of the landscape makes it presence and provides the uniqueness that is South African wine. A beautiful 2002 Sauvignon Blanc from Fleur Du Cap ($17.25) was the hands down best of show white wine winner by our tasters. A neck and neck tie between the 1998 Le Riche Cabernet Sauvignon ($15) and the 1998 Saxenburg Shiraz ($20.50) vowed for the best of show red wine. But what about dessert? Nothing better then to end the evening with a Non-vintage Ruby Port from De Krans Calitzdorp ($11.75). Full of lush, bright berry fruit flavor—the proper way to try this wine was with the savory Belgian chocolate chip cookies ever so lightly dunked into our glasses. An outstanding pairing! The future looks bright, and tremendous values are present when it comes to the wines of South Africa.
Tour of New Zealand July 6, 2004
Kia Ora! (Typical New Zealand greeting derived from the Maori—the indigenous people)
New Zealand is a melting pot of people and culture, well worth a 12-hour flight! In fact those who visit are thoroughly delighted by the wide variety of activities one is capable of exploring, including the wine of course. A sold out crowd of 31 oenophiles tasted a wide array of wines, including New Zealand’s well-known Sauvignon Blanc’s and Pinot Noir, as well as some additional up and coming varietals, like Gewurztraminer. Jennifer Tincknell of Via Pacifica Imports has a 19-year background in wine. Initially focused on French wines she is now knee deep in the wines of New Zealand and educated us immensely.
We started off with a ‘fine glass of fizz’, a 1999 Huia Brut sparkling wine ($30.00), and what a better way to start off an evening with the essence of crème brulee, biscuits, and toasty notes wafting from the glass. Followed was a string of whites, Gewurztraminer, Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay. The best of class white wine, was the 2003 Thornbury Sauvignon Blanc ($16.50), displaying mouth watering grassy, spice, floral and tropical fruit flavors. Matched with bite-size mushroom and goat-cheese pizza, it was hard to believe we had only made it about halfway through the 8 wine line-up. Could it get any better…?
The selection of red wines displayed beautiful examples of ‘the red hope of New Zealand’, Pinot Noir, with the context of the statement denoting the shear level of consistent quality that has arisen over the last couple decades. However, it isn’t just Pinot that holds acclaim. The best of class red wine was a Meritage, or Bordeaux style blend. The 2000 Alpha Domus Aviator, Hawke’s Bay ($36.50) was an exquisite example of a traditional Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Malbec fusion. Dark fruit, green pepper, vanilla and soft tannins are a result of Winemaker Evert Nijzinks using only the ‘eyes’ of the vineyard; meaning only the best grapes of the bunch go into the 275 cases that were made for 2000.
It’s hard to summarize the amount of information presented, but some additional great facts about New Zealand wine include:
- The Marlborough region put New Zealand wine on the world map decades ago
- Grape growers receive very long sunshine hours and very cold nights, resulting in unique terroir aspects
- Organically and/or sustainably grown grapes are prolific
- Birds are the only primary pest amongst grape growers
- Winemakers don't alter wine—no acidification, addition of sugar, etc…
- Overall wines typically have consistent clean flavors with round acids
- Quality and value ratio of wines is extremely high
- 60% of wineries using screw tops
- Most imports headed for USA, but also Germany, Ireland, U.K., and Australia
- The 2003 vintages are something to keep an eye on in the coming months/years, values abound
Tour of Austria July 13, 2004
Austria has been home to grape growing and wine making for centuries. Even the capitol itself, Vienna, host a sizable amount of vineyard acreage, about 1800, within its city borders (the only large world capitol to claim such fame). Our audience was presented with 4 white, 2 reds, and 2 dessert wines. Overall the varietals were new to most individuals (Grüner Veltliner, Blaufränkisch, St. Laurent), making the experience very unique. It is these indigenous grape varieties and others that have become the rising stars for Austria, who in recent decades have struggled to find a niche and unique identity within the wine world. Suffice to say, recent vintages have proven a great success for the multitude of small, often family run wine growers who are churning out gorgeous products. The best of show white wine went to the 2002 Salomon Undhof Kremser Kögl Riesling ($19.95) paired with a zesty chicken curry on garlic nahn bread. Our best of show red wine went to the 1998 Heinrich St. Laurent Burgenland ($17.95) and paired with succulent roast duck wrapped around spiced Asian green beans. St. Laurent is often described as combining the smooth warmth of Merlot with the aromatic complexity and delicacy of Pinot Noir. Not widely produced and completely indigenous to Austria, the wine is an example of a greater focus on the production of red wines from unique terroir.
Two dessert, or ‘sticky’, wines took the final two slots on our lineup, in which our Cordon Bleu trained chef Janet had to make the tie-breaking vote and give the best of show dessert wine to the 2000 Weingut Bründlmayer Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese (TBA) ($84.95). A gorgeous wine!!! Massive dried apricot, subtle spiciness, and just a slight hint of that beautiful petroleum essence that speaks of a Riesling. With sugars dancing all over the tongue the tiny madeleine cakes and blueberry clafoutis (clah- foo-Tea), a thick battered and baked until puffy dessert which comes from the Limousin region of France, were a delightful finish to the evening. Looking forward, the 2003 vintage trickling onto store shelves is predicted to be one of the best in recent memory, lending the notion that Austrian wines are certainly something to keep you eye on for generations to come.
Tour of Hungary July 20, 2004
The wine of kings, the king of wines…how sweet it is!
Our Hungarian tasting will go down as one of the most exclusive and rare events in recent memory, most notably because of the 6 Royal Tokaji wines that we were asked to muse over. Hungary has a long history of growing grapes and making wine, most notable for sweet wines, but also the producers of a plethora of white and reds. While the focus was certainly on the sweet wines we did start off with a more traditional white and a red blend. The best of show for the first two wines tasted went to the 2001 Tibor Gal Egri Bikaver ($13.75) translated as ‘bulls blood’ and composed of 40% Kekfrankos, 30% Cabernet Franc, 15% Syrah, 5% Oporto, 5% Pinot Noir, 5% Cabernet Sauvignon. Medium dark purple with a somewhat leafy character and pleasant blackcurrant jam sweetness along with massive concentration. The wine was very well complimented with bite-size pork sausage and creamy fingerling potato.
Chris, our ‘Ambassador’ of Royal Tokaji, who has traveled extensively in the region, then began the introduction of the sweet wines. Despite a recent century of hardships spanning from WWI & II to the iron grip of Communism and up till about a decade ago, a resurgence of wine making is now sweeping the region. All of the Tokaji wines were sensational to say the least (to put it into perspective it became difficult on several occasions to keep our salivary glands in check once the wine hit the tongue—we all could have used bibs!).
It is a rarity for one to be able to taste these wines because of such low production levels. Each Tokaji Aszú is made using a unique method; wherein overripe grapes affected by Botrytis Cinerea mold are individually picked (that’s each grape, not the entire bunch!) and collected into small 55 pound tubs called puttonyos. Next, the desired number of puttonyos (between three and six) is added to 36 gallon local barrels (called gönocs) of fresh white grape must. The number of puttonyos determines the grade of sweetness in the wine and later the level of classification. The more puttonyos used the sweeter the wine. After mashing and pressing, the wine is matured in small wooden barrels for five to seven years and later bottled.
Royal Toakji also has fame for being able to age for a considerable time because of the levels of sugar present in the wine, thus making the wines nearly indestructible, even once opened—if one can keep from sucking every drop out of the beautiful 500ml bottles.
The best of show of our six Royal Tokaji wines was not an easy choice, but no one denied the challenge. The 1993 Tokaji Aszú 6 Puttonyos Szt. Tamas ($83.00) narrowly beat several of the other contenders, but did receive the most votes. Rich, lush marmalade and honey notes, with points of ripe and dried apricot bouncing back and forth were magical in the mouth. Food pairing was hotly contested between double-chocolate fudge cake, mini lemon meringue tart, or a cheese éclair with chocolate frosting. Words make it difficult to truly describe the experience on your palette. By the end of the evening our sugar high was running full throttle and it was a guarantee that no one would soon forget the absolute grandness that is Royal Tokaji. Truly magnificent!
Red Retrospective of 1998 Vintage from Australia, July 27, 2004
Another packed house was on hand for a special retrospective look at some of Australia’s stellar 1998 vintage, specifically Shiraz, and Cabernet Sauvignon with a little Merlot and Grenache thrown in for fun. The majority of the 8 wines tasted hailed from 1998, but we did have a 1996 and 1997 vintage in the midst of our line-up to really expand the senses of what age worthy Aussie reds can exhibit after their slumber in the bottle.
Our in house sales guru and sommelier Adam Olthof personally selected wines from throughout the major wine growing regions so that a very broad tasting perspective could be achieved. It was also Adam who fielded questions left and right from a very curious crowd, running a gambit of topics from why certain varieties of grapes are planted in certain parts of the country, most notably the popularity of Shiraz, aspects of terroir, and of course the primary purpose of the evening was to inspect and analyze the potential of longevity for the wines.
One of the most significant aspects to the vintage was the affect of El Niño in 1998, producing one of the lowest annual rainfalls in recent memory. Faced with predictions of widespread drought, many vineyard managers can only ponder why everything went so well for the growing season in the end. The overall results was that all areas in Australia produced wine of great quality, delivering exactly what the Australian wine industry wanted at a critical time – both quality and quantity.
The best of show was grouped into one overall judging, given that we tasted all red wines during the evening. Our fourth selection of the night took the award, a magnificent 1996 Penfolds Bin 707 Cabernet Sauvignon from South Australia ($80.95). Paired with bite-sized gougeres, a puff pastry with cheese and black pepper, the intense flavors of plum and vanilla made for a rich and luscious experience on the palette. It is no wonder that Penfolds has long set the benchmark for Australian Cabernet, putting it on the world scene for all to savor.
The only close runner-up would have been the 1998 Cape Mentelle Cabernet Sauvignon from Margaret River ($40.00). Cape Mentelle is a sister winery to the famous Cloudy Bay of New Zealand (owned by beverage giant Moët Hennessy) with vineyard proximity a mere 8km from the ocean. Interestingly, it may be the maritime influence that gave the wine a ting of saltiness, along with juicy plum, a smattering of mint, and firm tannins. This wine certainly has another 8 to 10 years of cellaring potential, although paired with new potatoes marinated in thyme and crème fraiche on a bulb of New York steak we were hard-pressed to not give it a swirl and a sip.
Our conclusion for the evening was that Australian reds can and do age well under the right conditions, just as wines from other parts of the world do. As in other parts of the ‘New World’ of winemaking, the Australians see a more limited amount of necessity to create wines based on standards other then their own cultural and regional desires. In relation to grape varietals, for example, think of Bordeaux meets the Rhône, as the proliferation of Shiraz and Cabernet Sauvignon, often blended, begins to stamp the uniqueness that is wine from the land down under. If you’ve got any late 90’s Aussie reds, particularly in quantity, I would encourage you to open a bottle now but save a handful for a few more years thus allowing the living creature inside to run the gambit of it’s creators workmanship.
Tour of Chile, August 3, 2004
Located along the southwestern coast of South America, Chile has ideal conditions for growing wine grapes. With the Pacific Ocean to the west and the Andes Mountains towering to the east, Chile remains fairly isolated from the rest of the continent. A thermometer of a country, 2,650 miles long and averaging only 110 miles wide, with warm summers and mild winters, cooler than Napa Valley but drier than Bordeaux, it is no wonder that vinifera grapes were first planted in Chile beginning in the1850s when wealthy aristocrats developed a thirst for fine wines in France, and subsequently took Bordeaux as their model for the future of Chile's wine industry.
Until recently Chilean wines were cast towards the ‘bulk and inexpensive with varying quality’ wine section. However, those who have come to grow grapes and make wine know that it takes time for that sense of place to develop, or rather you’ve got to learn where the grapes are going to grow best—and what grapes are going to thrive more so then others. This aspect was certainly present in places like California and Australia and yet today in our sense of 'instant gratification' it can become an afterthought. The anticipation was high as the 8 wines presented to us proved that the time as come for Chilean wines to begin competing with the rest of the international wine producers.
Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc for the whites, and Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Pinot Noir and the reclusive Bordeaux orphan Carmenère for the reds compose the common varietals found in Chile. The style of Chilean wines tends to be more so like that of France, as the wines we tasted displayed a greater ‘Old World’ style akin to that pronounced expression of terroir, lower alcohol levels, and often the use of more traditional winemaking techniques. One noted major difference from the ‘Old World’ is that unlike some producers in France, Spain, or Italy the aspect of modernization is beginning to gain ground quickly, as winemakers and investors see the potential to capitalize on consumer demand for inexpensive, easy drinking wines—that bang for the buck.
The best of show for the two white wines introduced was the Peñalolen 2003 Sauvignon Blanc ($11.50), displaying ripe citrus, grassy, herbaceous notes on the nose and palate. Paired beautifully with red snapper ceviche, basil and avocado on toasted crustini; this was the way to start an evening. The best of show red wine for the night was overwhelmingly granted to the Envero 2001 Apaltagua Carmenère/Cabernet Sauvignon blend. Composed of 91% Carmenère and the remainder, 9% Cabernet, showing off plenty of plum, vanilla, and red fruit notes. Very elegant and smooth—a real bargain at $10.00 a bottle. Matched up with a chicken moose pâté this wine was a true showing of what excellence Chile can show in their current releases. With an influx of international investment and enthusiasm, the wines of Chile are certainly something to pay attention to today and in the years to come. Rest assured the bottles will remain stocked at Rancho Cellars Fine Wine Merchants.
The Wines of Neyers Vineyards with Bruce Neyers, August 10, 2004
Bruce Neyers has been in the wine business to one degree or another for over 30 years. He’s met the top producers from renowned regions in the Napa Valley and France and of course tasted wine upon wine, seeking out those individual bottles that make so many of us oenophiles drool with anticipation at the pop of a cork (or twist of a screw top as is becoming common place). He’s actually a man of two industries, centered around wine of course. Beyond the creation of what we tasted out of the bottle Tuesday evening, certainly the focus for us here at Rancho Cellars, Bruce is also the National Sales Manager for Berkeley based Kermit Lynch Wine Importers, renowned for bringing top-end French wines into the country.
Having arrived in sleepy Napa Valley in 1970, this ‘old-timer’ began an interest in growing grapes and making wine with a focus on quality of fruit in the vineyard having direct impact on the final product. Fast forward to 1999 when Bruce and his wife purchased and renovated a winery on Sage Canyon Road in the hills outside of Rutherford in the Napa Valley, with the 2000 vintage shortly thereafter being released. That’s when the rave reviews began pouring in.
Our evening of food, conversation and wine comprised of eight wines from the 2002 vintage, spinning the gambit of Chardonnay, Grenache (Napa Valley Grenache!?!), Merlot, Zinfandel and Syrah. Our best of show for the white wines was given to the 2002 Thieriot Vineyard Chardonnay from the Sonoma Coast ($48.50), a magnificent example of what great California Chardonnay can be—and I don’t mean loaded with the all to prolific ‘butter and oak’ notes masking all sense of additional flavor components. This is what Bruce expresses in his California Chardonnay, because he lives here—perhaps if he lived in Burgundy he would make Burgundian Chardonnay. Seemed logical to all of us! A lush and rich wine with all the perfect points of tropical fruit, toasty notes, and hint of hot buttered rum candy. Pairing of food only elevated the senses; a diced quail green pea and corn salad with tarragon and chive on fresh crustini melded to the wine swirling in our glasses and into our mouths.
The best of show amongst our selection of 5 red wines narrowly went to the 2002 Hudson Vineyards Syrah from the Napa Valley ($40.50). Paired with mouth-watering gruyere gougères (French pastry filled with cheese) piping hot from the oven, this Syrah displayed strong flavors of dark fruits with smoke and gamey notes wafting into the nose. Balanced acidity and a great earthiness on the palate proved Neyers standard for top-class Syrah is on the right path.
Bruce believes that the future holds a place for even better wines evolving into creations and taste profiles never before thought possible. He’s a strong proponent of organic viticulture, expressing aspect of terroir and does hope for the possibility that one of his 3 children may follow some aspects of his pathway. Time will only tell, and in-between we’re graced with the stunning flavors of Neyers Vineyards wine.
Morgan with David Coventry, August 17, 2004
Witty educational jargon, spectacular locally grown and made wines, plus a little fine cheese amounted to a barrel-full of enjoyment for our audience on Tuesday evening.
David is quite the character, granting us an intenseness and passion about what he does day in and day out without hesitation. Formally a chemist, then a rock band manager, winemaking seemed to be the perfectly logical next step and given the eight wines we tried I can assure you his logic is sound.
David is on a selfish pursuit, along with winery founder and grape grower Dan Morgan Lee, to make great wine—nothing less will satisfy. The wines being produced are to represent their origin—namely Monterey County and specifically the Santa Lucia Highlands, considered a gem in California yet highly unknown when compared to our Napa and Sonoma neighbors to the North. It is from this landscape that quality fruit is an absolute and the concept of ‘farming for flavor’ becomes more important then just growing grapes to grow grapes. David has an obsession about quality winemaking starting in the vineyard. Additionally, vineyards such as the Morgan’s Double L are farmed organically and the resulting grape harvest seems to shine with beauty and finesse—more so then those farmed using synthetic chemicals and fertilizers.
When David and his team get the grapes into the warehouse, yes I said warehouse—there exist no ‘grand chateau’ or immaculate wine cave, which is ok by David because he can then put money towards better equipment, better barrels, etc…the juice is viewed as needing to achieve a balance of four main flavor/texture components: Fruit, oak, mineral, and acidity. This winemaker goes into each day looking for problems, not waiting for them to show themselves—thus he tries every barrel at least four times prior to bottling, quick to make adjustments when necessary. He believes in a non-interventionist approach to winemaking as best as possible. Wine is a living thing, it matures, has a lifespan and should always be viewed with this non-static image.
Going through the line-up of wines was a stunning moment of magic in the mouth, and as always we were forced to choose are favorites. The best of show white wine winner was the 2003 Pinot Gris ($16.50) with grapes sourced from the Santa Lucia Highlands. A unique wine and perhaps an up and coming varietal as the American palate towards Chardonnay continues, ever so slightly, to wane. Wonderful as an aperitif or a great accompaniment to lighter meals; this wine displays light fruit characteristics, a floral nose and a dry finish. The best of show red wine nominated was hands-down Morgan’s Flagship wine, the 2001 Double L Vineyard Pinot Noir ($39.00) from the Santa Lucia Highlands. Slotted next to some pecorino al tartufo and a dabble of white truffle oil the luscious flavors of cherry, red plums, spice and vanilla with a super smooth finish mesmerized the audience. Morgan Winery and the entire Monterey County and Santa Lucia Highlands are our own backyard. What a privileged existence it is to have such fabulous neighbors!
David’s last words on the wine: the wines ‘are Morgan you bargain for!’
Tour de France - August 24, 2004
One church, five cafés and 200 people surrounded by vineyards…
From Roman times to the creation of the appellation d'origine controlee (AOC) system in 1936, to the present day boom in wine consumption, France has set much of the standards for worldwide wine making from California to Australia and beyond. With few exceptions the standards winemakers strive for today follow much of the tradition and practice that has been honed for centuries in France.
The Frenchman himself, Jacques Melac, led a packed house of 34 oenophiles on a tour of France, all within the comforts of Cepage Wine Bar at Rancho Cellars in Carmel. The Loire Valley, Burgundy, Alsace, The Rhône and Champagne (Bordeaux will get all the attention on August 31st) were all in our line-up. At 6pm the corks were free and the wine was flowing, but even more importantly we were treated to a plethora of information about all levels of French wine.
The best of show took on a different spin then our usual best red or white wine. A best of region per red and white was a much better approach given the variation in wines we got to try. Our best of show regional white came from Burgundy, the 2002 Domaine Bernard Morey Montrachet 1er Cru ($54.95) paired with beautiful pork loin bites that had been marinated in crème faiche and tarragon. An outstanding example of a Côte de Beaune Chardonnay with soft oak and butter notes, rich mouth feel and great complexity.
The best of show regional red was a neck-to-neck tie between Burgundy and the Rhône. The 2001 Domaine Charlopin Gevrey-Chambertin ‘La Justice’ ($35.95) displayed smoke and earth on the nose with cherry, dark fruits and subtle vanilla in the mouth. Smooth and luscious with a long finish and accompanied by chicken pâte on crustini this was my personal favorite of the entire night—a red burgundy with such beauty and at a very reasonable price all capable of cellaring. I know my own dungeon will be adorned with at least a few bottles. The second best of region red wine, the 2001 Chateau de Fonsalette Cotes du Rhone ($53.50), was a big and bold Syrah with plenty of meaty and earth notes to it. Mild acidity and a lingering finish helped meld the baby squash stuffed with roasted sweet peppers, onions, anchovies, and basil. Like the Burgundy, this wine is readily approachable now but will also do wonders for the next 10-15 years if stored properly.
The evening concluded with a glass of non-vintage Bonnaire Brut Champagne ($29.95) and a toast to happy living and good wine drinking (after the audience let the chocolate glazed profiteroles (cream puffs) melt away in their mouth). Applause was rampant and our wine education enhanced.
Despite the rise of competition in todays wine industry the French vingnerons are holding true to a continued creation of the classics that have graced cellars and tables for centuries. Our taste buds only aspire for more!
Bordeaux Tasting - August 31, 2004
In the world of wine classics the Bordeaux region of Southwestern France sits at the throne and has done so for ages. Commanding high prices and limited availability the wines that do trickle out across the Atlantic and into our local wine shops are often snatched up far before the average consumer is even capable of putting greenbacks on the counter. However, there does exist a very large and approachable selection beyond the high end Lafitte-Rothschild ($350) or Petrus ($1200) from the 2000 vintage and beyond. In actuality all of the wines on our evening lineup never exceeded $40 and exhibited solid fruit and structure with world-class appeal. Additionally, the knowledge of Mathieu Kressmann, a wine importer and Native of Bordeaux, provided a thorough background of each wine and rightfully so. Mathieu’s family has been in the wine business to some degree or another for many generations and the pride he displayed of the wines of Bordeaux was readily apparent. An overall appreciation of the region and a bounty of fun facts kept our 2-hour tour lively and educational. I was personally intrigued to learn that for some time much of the wines were not actually bottled in Bordeaux, rather the barrels themselves were put onto ships that set sail for London or Belgium. Upon arrival the bottling took place and the wines were sold to the public
With only one specific wine region covered and 8 wines our weekly nomination of the best wine(s) of the night was directed toward a best of the region vote. While the beautiful yet lone white Bordeaux, a 2000 Lamothe Bouscaut from Pessac-Leognan ($16.00), and the sweet mouthwatering Sauternes, a 2000 Chateau Simon ($20.00) didn’t garner enough raised hands, everyone agreed that it was the reds that were really in the ring duking it out. The overwhelming favorite red Bordeaux was the exquisite 2000 Baron de Brane Margaux ($37.25). A tremendous wine created with 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot and topped off with 5% Cabernet Franc. Showing cherry, black currant, plum and subtle cedar notes, the ripe tannins and great concentration give this wine 8-10 years of eventual maturity, however with just an hour breath-time prior to serving no one in the audience was the least bit disappointed.
It is true that many of the growers and producers are struggling in the region due to a variety of economic, environmental and competitive forces, however it is unmistakable that the wines are evolving into a better product, absolutely representative of its origin, and continuing to ohh and ahh oenophiles and enthusiasts around the world. Just as it has been for centuries so shall it be for centuries to come the wines of Bordeaux remain king.
Taste of Argentina - September 7, 2004
Scott of Epic Wines, who’s family also grows grapes in the Santa Cruz Mountains, was on hand to expose some of the finest wines that Argentina has to offer, and who should be surprised considering they are the 5th largest producer in the world. Having spent time at school in neighboring Chile, Scott had many a first hand account on exploring the landscape of viticulture and winemaking, mostly centered around the region of Mendoza in Argentina’s eastern flank abutted against the Andes Mountains. The geography is unique and adds to the individualistic qualities that are becoming more and more well known with the wines being made vintage after vintage. Being on the leeward side of the mountains with glaciated caps provides a cooling of the air as it descends onto the high desert of Mendoza-a welcoming climate for grape varietals like the heat-loving Malbec which has arisen to become the star grape of the region. The Mendoza region itself accounts for 75% of wine production, with 95% of exports also stemming from an area the size of California. Additionally, a lack of viticulture plagues, that have influence on other areas in the world, like Phylloxera and mammalian vermin such as gophers, give local producers the time to focus on growing outstanding fruit of which we enjoy the eventual taste of their labor.
While Americans have no where near the consumption level as that of the Argentina’s, ranking 4th per capita worldwide, our audience of tasters had no hesitation to interlock their lips and mouth with our selected wines. Our weekly vote for the best of show for the white wines, of which a Rosé was included, went to the 2002 Luca Chardonnay ($32.50), one of the best Chardonnays that I have personally tried recently. This wine was full-bodied, rich with notes of tropical fruit and radiated a perfect balance of oak, butter and acidic components. Truly mouthwatering and accompanied with a bite of Nieman ham with thyme mustard and gruyere cheese and a cube of sourdough bread—the solid and liquid played nicely with each other. I think this wine easily meets any Russian River or Carneros Chardonnay at double the price head on. An amazing wine! Equally, the reds and their respective voters sparred over Malbecs, Cabernets and Bordeaux style blends. Ultimately the 2002 Mapema Malbec from Mendoza ($21.50) took the prize, although I’ll wonder if the duck magret atop oven-dried figs had any sway in the matter. Rich dark fruit notes, chocolate undertones, dried cherry and currant and round oak tannins mark another tremendous value from Mendoza.
Despite an economy that has had significant struggles and continues to wrangle with the IMF, all the while seeing its currency devaluate, the wine export business continues to boom. In fact it may have been the change in exchange rates worldwide that gave Argentina an opportunity to churn out stunning value priced wines that an ever growing consumer base continue to buy up in copious quantities. With room to grow and an ever thirsty world looking for new wines and styles of winemaking the Argentina wine industry will be a force to reckon with as the years roll forward.
Parsonage Village Vineyard and Tudor Wines - September 14, 2004
Small boutique wineries are on the rise all over California and Carmel Valley is no different. In fact the prevalence of the small family-knit winery may very well become the plateau that the Carmel Valley and parts of the Santa Lucia Highlands entrench themselves within. It will be these small production wineries that keep the artisan traditional of winemaking, sourced from the best quality vineyard fruit and nurtured barrel by barrel, in the forefront of our minds when we want to drink truly exceptional wine. Our evening was particularly special because it was local’s night—themselves being Dan Tudor of Tudor Wines, exclusively producing limited quantities of Santa Lucia Highland Pinot Noir, and Bill Parsons of Parsonage Village Vineyard based in Carmel Valley and growing/making red Bordeaux varietals as well as Syrah.
Dan Tudor’s only excuse to not hitting the street selling wine or tinkering with juice in barrel is when the surf is good. Aspiring to become a top-notch surfer AND winemaker is quite the challenge, but Dan takes it in stride purely for the joy that it brings, all the while knowing he could not live happily any other way. Historically, his family has been growing grapes since Greek times in what is present day Croatia. The ‘wine bug’ has to come from somewhere and why not from what many perceive as a major point of origin for many a grape used in the world today. Fast-forward to 1917 and his Grandfather makes his footprint in California following a dream of prosperity and harmony, something the younger generation 80+ years later would certainly adopt. A cornerstone of Dan’s ethos when it comes to winemaking is being in touch with the complexities that make great wine. Beyond obtaining the best possible grapes, the specifics in making the wine—type of oak used, yeast for fermentation, hand punching grape-must caps in small bins—are a mandatory component for Tudor wines. Because of this you’ll see quality and composition in flavor like none other. Tudor Wines current vintages are nearing the ‘sold-out’ category, so picking up a few bottles today before it’s to late is a must-do venture.
Bill Parsons has a beautiful small plot of vineyards right in the heart of Carmel Valley just above The Village itself. Initially it was a ping-pong match of pure delusion and paranoia in deciding what grape varieties would prosper on his steep and sometimes rocky bench land previously used for cattle grazing. Input from consulting winemakers spoke about the ideal conditions for Pinot Noir, but Bill sought to create something in the style of Bordeaux, maybe even Le Pin or Petrus (without the sticker shock!). Settling on Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Petit Verdot, Malbec and a little Rhône grape known as Syrah, the challenge was put in front of him. Challenging it truly is, as any grape grower and/or winemaker will tell you. It is a ‘love’, as Bill says, that really pushes you each day and each vintage to keep pursuing success. It should be noted that Tuesday evening was the grand debut of Bill’s next vintage, 2002, and our hopes from previous experiences tasting his wine were met full on and with utter satisfaction.
As is tradition each week we ask our audience to vote for one or two of their favorite wines—wines that regardless of price, source, or availability are considered the best of the night. The best of show for Dan Tudor’s 3 wines went to the 2000 Tondré Vineyard Pinot Noir ($35) from the Santa Lucia Highlands (with only 400 6-packs made this beauty was long sold-out on the store shelves months ago, however it was a real treat to compare and contrast against Dan’s other two wines). Paired with an egg, ham and cheddar tart, the ripe berry and smooth mouth-feel raced through the senses reminding us all why we like Santa Lucia Highland Pinot Noir so much. Bill Parsons treated us to 7 of his reds, all of which are limited in production and extremely sought after. The best of show wine went to the 2002 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon ($75), a hedonistic wine with loads of dark fruit, subtle chocolate, toasty wood and cedar mingling around chewy tannins. Throw in a little chateaubriand with parslied green beans and you’ve got yourself a match made in heaven.
The Santa Lucia Highlands is, in this writer’s opinion, growing some of the greatest Pinot Noir that the West Coast has to offer. Combined with the skill of winemakers, both local and abroad, I think that the wine world is quickly recognizing the potential for this unique area of hills above the Salinas River Valley. While Carmel Valley will never reach the size of the Santa Lucia Highlands the established few will continue to hone their grapes and wines into a representation of the source—terroir, those intrinsic qualities that make the difference between the good and great wine. We are proud at Rancho Cellars to keep our shelves brimming with local products because we know the energy and positive vibes that make it into every bottle, thus we shall not detract from our showcase.
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